Destination Vietnam: Explore the Imperial City of Hue
When traveling from Hanoi to Hue you can either go by train for 12 hours or fly for less than one hour. We traveled from Hanoi to Hue via Danang Airport. Based on our experiences, do avoid flying Vietjet Airlines as they apparently are notorious for cancelling flights, causing us a “common” 5 hour delay. From Danang the supposedly scenic route drive became a grueling night drive through roads full of road construction and huge trucks whirling rocks and dust. Our driver tried a slight shortcut resulting in a shredded tire around midnight with endless rows of speeding trucks passing by on a dangerous construction corner in the middle of seemingly nowhere. The spare tire was exchanged by the help of our IPhone's Flashlight App, but it turned out the tire was only partially inflated and the driver continued at a speed of 10 km per hour. The drive seemed endless and our 4 star hotel seemed to be fast asleep with staff sleeping on couches in the lobby- that is a first experience during my frequent travels around the world.
Why visit Hue’?
Hue has an intriguing past as both Imperial City and National Capital. It was the residence of Nguyen Dynasty emperors and the national capital from 1802-1945, until the communist government established its government in Hanoi.
Roof ornamentation of the gatehouse to the Imperial Palace across from the Citadel
Hue's central location very near the border between the North and South put the city in a very vulnerable position during the Vietnam War. The city suffered double damage not only to its physical features, due to a combination of the American military bombing of historic buildings held by the North Vietnamese, and the massacre at Hue’ committed by the communist forces. After the war ended, many of the historic features of Hue’ were neglected as they were seen by the victorious communist regime and some other Vietnamese as "relics from the feudal regime". Many historical areas of the city are currently being restored after the designation as Unesco World Heritage Site. The Imperial City occupies a large, walled area on the north side of the Perfume River.
Fortunately the Imperial Palace is now a Unesco World Heritage Site and many buildings are being renovated
Wonderful roof ornamentation and railings indicate the lavish architecture of the Imperial Palace
The vast 19th century Citadel and Imperial Palace are delightful to visit, surrounded by a moat and thick stonewall fortifications, encompassing some well restored palaces and shrines as well as parts of the forbidden Purple City, which was once the Emperor’s home. Only the emperors, concubines, eunuchs and those close enough to them were granted access alive. Throughout the Citadel visual and written descriptions provide an insight into the cruel and lavish lifestyle within the walls.
Ceramic roof ornamentation restored
Ornate detailing of operable door panels in one of the Imperial pavilions
Imperial Pavillions
Imperial pavillion
Some roof ornamentation is still in ruins, awaiting renovation
Exit gate from the Imperial Palace
Close-up of the wonderful ornate ornamentation of the exit gatehouse
Outside the Citadel bicycle rickshaw drivers were uncomfortably aggressive in trying to drum up a business opportunity. Perfume River seems almost unused, only one cafe' had taken advantage of the location almost across the Citadel as well as a smaller night market mainly geared on tourists. River boats with dragon painted tin decoration were lined up and as this was a quiet time of the year the boat owners were hawking business.
Perfume River cruises in ornate dragon boats
Ferocious dragon river boat ornamentation on painted tin
Families seemed to be living on the boats, which were only outfitted with loose plastic chairs.
Families are living on the primitive river boats. This woman was the caption
Passengers seating on simple plastic chairs, hopefully the river will stay calm
Along the river are other monuments, including the tombs of several emperors. The tour along the river is not the most charming adventure, but can offer plenty of opportunities for future tourism development. We took a tour to the Thien Mu Pagoda which was beautiful and in a stunning location; however I have seen many much more stunning pagodas and this pagoda structure was not accessible.
Impressive arrival procession from the riverboat to the Thien Mu Pagoda
Thien Mu Pagoda
Hue remains a tranquil and conservative city, seemingly without much city life, and in my opinion is worthy of a full day of visiting, but not much more during the colder time of year, although there are supposedly several good beaches about 15 minutes away. Day trips are offered to visit the somber history of the Vietnam War relics, such as the underground tunnels built by the Vietcong, but we decided to continue to Hoi An via the scenic route crossing the heights of the battle grounds, offering beautiful vistas over the lower beaches.
“Hue has an intriguing past as both Imperial City and National Capital”
