Destination Vietnam: Explore Charming Hoi An

The old Japanese bridge in Hoi An

The drive from Hue to Hoi An along the scenic route was long, but certainly offered some beautiful views and historic sites. We arrived at Hoi An just before sunset and the Unesco World Heritage designated city is as alluring as I remembered from a previous visit-such a beautiful and poetic old town. Our small hotel, Villa Hoi Su An at the outskirts of the town, adjacent to a lazy river, with only 8 villas facing a koi pond with a central pavilion surrounded by the heavy scent of blossoming frangipani trees, was an unexpected and very charming location.  

No time to unpack yet, as we wanted to get into the old town before sunset. The old town is a pedestrian zone where only bicycle rickshaws are allowed. The ocher colored old houses are incredibly charming. Most are around 200 years old, many were and are still owned by Japanese or Chinese merchants and some are open to visit if you buy a reasonably priced coupon book. It is fascinating to see how families still live here and especially still cook multiple meals here in the very primitive kitchens. The sun is now setting along the river and the restaurants in the quaint houses are starting to get busy.  Some old fishermen are sitting on primitive wooden scaffoldings pedaling the huge fishing nets up from the bottom of the river while old women are sitting in their rowing boats with their Vietnamese straw hats, begging you to take a sunset river ride, or at least pay them for letting you take their photo.

Rickshaw drivers resting before the next ride

The bicycle rickshaw guys are relaxing, chatting and eating on a street corner.

Merchant on the charming streets of Hoi An

 The next morning we bicycle into old town again. Strolling down the cobblestones old streets we discover old shop houses, stunning old Chinese Buddhist temples, cafes, galleries and tailors. I have never seen so many tailors in one place before. Check out the quality carefully, as I learned by sad experience that the quality and styles vary tremendously. Overnight you can have your suit, dresses or shirts made. I recommend going to one of the larger and recognized places as their designers and tailors are excellent. Best if you bring images of what you like.

 The temples are colorful and wonderful with their extraordinary roof ornamentations, bright hues and spiral incense hanging from the ceiling. Most temples require a ticket to get in, which is a bit annoying, but it certainly is worth it as the temple interiors are stunning.

My absolute favorite is exploring the many charming narrow alleyways running perpendicular to the river. The moss over grown ocher walls and old colorful metal gates offer glimpses into how life is still lived today, simple. Beautiful old ceramic tiles adorn many floors. Mainly old people are gathering to eat or watch tv, while an old fan is blowing a welcome breeze during the very hot day. You can spend hours crisscrossing the alley ways while trying to depict the residential charm of the past.

One of the most famous landmarks is the old Japanese covered bridge. Other of my favorites are the old Japanese shophouses still belonging to many generations and still relatively untouched.

Merchant house

Food is wonderful and generally inexpensive. Vietnamese beers are cheaper than water and great companions to the spicy simple but very tasty noodle dishes which Hoi An are known for. You can order tasty fresh Vietnamese spring rolls if you prefer non spicy food. Relax during the heat of the day with a cold Vietnamese coffee in one of the many charming cafes.

I love exploring the market halls. Around noon many of the vendors are napping on benches and metal tables. Great food is freshly cooked in and being shared in some of the stalls, while spices and fresh vegetables are piled up in photogenic piles. Outside the market you will meet many Vietnamese ladies with their double baskets over their shoulders or squatting above the ground. Lovely ladies, who love to chat and laugh. Along the river you will find fresh fish and crabs with their claws tied up. Although their future is limited, the craftsmanship of tying the claws with colorful strands of fabric is poetic. Beware, the halls are primitive and the smelly slimy fishy water makes it so slippery that I almost took a nosedive into the river, much to the entertainment of the old ladies, who had warned me. An occasional rat running in-between my legs made the experience even more authentic. The photo opportunities made the experience double memorable.

Life is slow and it is a wonderful experience to meander through the old city for some days, as charm and architecture is truly romantic and stunning. Some years the river will flood the streets dramatically, best to check the weather report. Nearby beaches should be quite good, but I just cannot get enough of the old town which is such a visual treasure.

Biking back to the small hotel and getting served freshly cooked food cooked by the receptionist surrounded by the frangipani trees was a welcome respite after a very hot day of leisure.

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