Explore Jaipur Through the Footsteps of the Maharajas

City Palace, Jaipur

Some places are magical and leave memories of wonder.  Their vibrancy of colors and stunning architecture evoke emotion, drama and sensuality. Jaipur, the capital of the Rajasthan province in India will get under your skin, but in a magical way. 

Jaipur is part of the tourist triangle Delhi-Jaipur-Agra. A 5-6 hours’ drive south from New Delhi, sandwiched between diesel-pelting colorful trucks with dangling rubber tassels on partially grueling roads is not for the faint hearted until you reach the border of Rajastan, where you immediately see a more abundant agricultural scenario of colorful villages and better roads. Expect potholes, cows, on the road and colorful sarees and truck repairs along the road. It was not quite the scenic drive through rural India I had imagined and I definitely recommend that you hire a driver with a SUV.

Upon arrival in Jaipur, clear your senses by first visiting Galtaji, -belovingly called the Monkey Temple- a poetically decaying Hindu temple about 10 km outside Jaipur. The temple architecture is framing and straddling a steep canyon, while creating a series of pools where pilgrims come to wash away their sins. Large colonies of friendly monkeys will beg for peanuts, but they will win your heart. I recommend getting a local guide to handle the monkeys. Arriving in the late afternoon is the best time of day, as the warm rays of the sun will reflect beautifully on the temples and monkeys.

Jaipur is the capital of the desert state, and arises like a Fata Morgana from the arid soil.  The old town of the “Pink City” was master planned almost 300 years ago by an enlightened Maharaja, Jai Singh II, who had a delightful  passion for architecture.  Surrounded by a pink wall with gates leading into the city on axis at all 4 sides, the streets are filled with palaces, temples and workshops of artisans, gem cutters, and fashion designers; still to this day making it an intriguing cultural and shopping destination filled with visual bliss. Walk the covered sidewalk bazaars under the colorful merchant houses, filled with vibrant colorful merchandise.

One of the gates to Old City

Enjoy a well-deserved visit and dinner at the opulent Rambagh Palace, a former hunting palace and residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur. Operated by Taj Hotel Group you can expect a royal setting and stellar service. The royal hotel has conserved the beauty of a time long gone with beautiful lawns and fountains, which are a rare sight in the dry and barren Rajastan province. Nighttime is truly a romantic experience. I highly recommend having dinner and if you can, live like a Maharaja for a couple of nights – or stay next door at SMS Hotel, which is also operated by Taj Hotels-but not as luxurious-, and enjoy all your meals at Rambagh Palace.

Day 2:

Start the day early by exploring Jantar Mantar, a Unesco World Heritage Site before the tourist crowds arrive. A collection of 19 astronomical large instruments completed in 1734 are majestic architectural wonders and express the founding father, the Maharaja’s passion for and knowledge of astronomy, science and architecture.

Adjacent, the five-story Hawa Mahal, Palace of the Winds, highlights the splendor of City Palace architecture. Built as a palace where the women of the Maharajas would view the city life and festivals unfold in the shopping streets below without being seen in public, the women would enjoy natural breezes. The 5 stories of bay windows with operable window panes are akin to the honeycomb of a beehive with its 953 small windows decorated with lattice stone work.

Hawa Mahal, Palace of Winds, was built for the women of the Maharaja’s women to view city life below

To this day, the City Palace is still inhabited by the royal Maharajas, but you can visit their palace and imagine the colorful court unfolding here for centuries. The City Palace is a fusion of Mughal and Rajput architecture and was built as the ceremonial center of religious and cultural events. It now houses the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum. Chandra Mahal is still the residence of the Royals, and its 7 floors are open for visits for a rather hefty entrance fee. The first 2 floors – Sukh Niwas, House of Pleasure, are followed by Rang Mahal with its stunning blue and white painted wall decorations. The last 2 floors are the crowning pavilions. The ceilings and doors are low, in order to prevent intruders to attach quickly. You can spend hours here, if you have the time. The exit courtyard with 4 intricately decorated door ways are delicate architectural expressions of the regal splendor of times past.

Amber Fort, or Amer Fort, is a Unesco World Heritage site located about 20 minutes outside Jaipur as a part of six hill forts stretching across the hilltops. The construction of the fort started in 1592 with other rulers adding to it over the years. Made of sandstone and white marble in Mughal architecture, the fort consists of a series of beautiful courtyards, halls and gardens. The Sheesh Mahal -Mirror Palace- is the most majestic part of it, with intricately flowers carved and embedded with mirrors in walls and ceilings. If 2 candles are lit, it looks like thousands of stars glittering in the ceiling. Wait for a special sowing of this magical space.

Before you leave Amer, the village below, visit the charming Hindu temple.

The Water Palace - Jal Mahal - was once a shooting lodge of the Maharaja. The five-story building, of which 4 floors are underwater when the lake is full, appears to be floating in the middle of a man-made lake, but cannot be accessed, only photographed from the shore and is only worthwhile visiting for some photos as the shore has become rather touristy.

The Water Palace - Jal Mahal - has 4 floors under water, but is not currently accessible

After a full day of cultural explorations, it is time for a beverage or a meal at the charming Bar Palladio. Most tour guides do not know this place, but it is located adjacent to Narain Niwas Palace Hotel. An oriental fantasy world of beauty and delight, Bar Palladio is an ode to Italian style and cuisine, viewed through the prism of a Mughal dreamworld. The bar opens around 6pm, but if you arrive earlier you can photograph the bright blue charming series of rooms without people. The garden features outdoor follies with fireplaces and peacocks walking around, perfect party pits. Check out the colorful heritage hotel on the grounds and the small exclusive retail area with luxurious modern minimalist pashmina shawls.

A full day of magical cultural wonders has come to a memorable ending.

“Contrary to popular belief, Jaipur is not crowded and congested, but a poetic place to visit. Jaipur will get under your skin, but in a memorable way.”