Mesmerizing Udaipur in Rajastan, India: Follow James Bond Through Palaces, Temples, Havelis and Lakes

Dine with a view over Lake Pichola and City Palace at Ambrai Restaurant

Immerse yourself in this fairy tale city, exploring stunning palaces, temples, lounging on rooftops with meringue-like rooftops and dining alfresco along Lake Pichola. Considered the most romantic place in India, Udaipur in the desert state Rajastan tantalizes all senses. A lakeside paradise of shimmering marble, often called the Venice of India; instead I would call it Lake Come of India. Daily life slowly unfolds on or along the serene glistening waterfront, with reflections of temples and palaces, surrounded by the beautiful Aravalli hills in all directions.

Mornings are quiet along the ghats of Lake Pichola

There is no doubt that Udaipur can be chaotic, but in this setting the chaos of loud life in the narrow streets adds to the overall charm of being there. Winding streets with local craft stores, ancient temples and palaces of the Maharanas give way to peekaboo’s of the lakeside, where life unfolds slowly and changes as the day progresses. Quiet in the mornings, the stepped banks (Ghats) give way to bathing rituals and laundry in the afternoon. Tiny temples are tugged in-between palaces and Havalis (heritage residences).

Afternoons are the time for bathing and laundry

Steeped in history, the former capital of the Mewar Kingdom was founded by Maharana Udai Singh II in year 59.

Must-see agenda if you have 1-2 days in Udaipur:

Two of the many courtyards at City Palace

1. City Palace

Overlooking Lake Pichola is a must. First built in 1559, a total of 11 palaces have been added by successive Maharanas in intricate Indo-Aryan architectural style. The Maharanas still live in part of the palace and you can stay there as well, at Shiv Niwas Palace. Elaborate interiors decorated with mirrors, tiles, colored glass and paint are intersected by courtyards and gardens. City Palace Museum is connected to the City Palace.

City Palace Museum

2. Jagdish Temple

Located next to City Palace, built by Maharana Jagat Singh, is a historical heritage and pilgrimage temple. Steep steps from the busy Jagdish Chowk town square in old town lead up to the temple which features intricate stone carvings and an enshrined black stone image of Lord Vishnu and his giant Garuda bird.

Jagdish Temple

3. Jagdish Chowk Square

And the surrounding streets with its bustling traffic inferno of tuk-tuks and motorbikes is a haven for art and crafts shopping. Antique and new wood carvings, hand stitched tribal clothing and slippers draw your attention in many directions. Intricately detailed residences only allow peeks through the opened shutters and courtyards. Preview video clips of James Bond’s Octopussy for a glimpse of the vibrant urban life unfolding in the narrow streets. Fortunately no cars are allowed, but this also means you can only enter the city heritage hotels by tuk-tuk.

4. Lake Pichola

Relax with a short boat ride on Lake Pichola; you buy tickets at the southside of City Palace. The boat ride will circle around the charming Taj Lake Palace Hotel, a summer palace of white stone, leftovers from the City Palace, adorned by semi-precious stone. The boat lands at Jag Niwas Palace, another summer palace. Walk around the gardens and imagine life unfolding during the courts of the Maharanas. For longer boat rides, you can charter boats; especially stunning at nighttime.

5. Food scene

If you are looking for a romantic place for dinner, the views from Ambrai, located across from City Palace on the banks of Lake Pichola on the tip behind the charming Heritage Hotel Amet Haveli offers prime views of Taj Lake Palace and the lit-up City Palace. We went back twice to immerse ourselves into the poetic scenic beauty and the food was good as well.

Dinner al-fresco overlooking the City Palace and Old Town

6. The ancient pilgrimage Ekling Ji temple

Built in 734 and housing 108 small and large temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, is located in a village about 13 miles/22 km from Udaipur. If you are driving from Jaipur, you will pass it before you reach Udaipur.  Opening hours are restricted, 4:00 - 6:AM, 10:30AM – 1:30PM and 5:30 – 7:00PM. We arrived in the afternoon, waiting for about an hour before the temple opened its gates and enjoyed being part of the colorful village scene with its holy men, cows and women in their vibrant saris. Everyone were queuing up in proper lines once the temple gates opened up. Purses, shoes and cameras/phones (unfortunately, as the ancient temple is very historic and pictoresque, but at he same time a relief to focus on praying) are left outside the temple entrance in lockers. Follow the locals and perform their rituals with them, offering flowers and candles. I was sitting down on the floor at the center of the largest temple with the women.  Evening aartis, a Hindu religious ritual of worship, in which light is offered to one or more deities are a treat to watch. Devotees flock in large numbers on Mondays.

When to go

Best in the winter season, September-March, when the temperatures are pleasant. We went in February which is wedding season and hotels are almost fully booked; a wonderful season to visit get peaks and sound bits of the elaborate wedding parties; but you have to book early or your options are extremely limited. 

Where to stay

Udaipur offers a number of the most luxurious prestigious hotels: Oberoi Udaivilas, Taj Lake Palace and Leela Palace are stunning 5 star hotels. If you are more adventurous, I recommend staying in the old town at Heritage Havali hotels, such as Amet Havali (only 20 rooms, most with views of Lake Pichola), Udai Kothi (64 rooms with a stunning rooftop pool) or Lake Pichola Hotel, all located across the narrow end of the river with views of City Palace, within walking distance of the City Palace and the ghats (steps) along the lake. 

”Immerse yourself in this fairy tale city, exploring stunning palaces, temples”